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From Volume to Victory: The Story of Ángel Rojas’ Geisha
Geisha Coffee: A Rare and Exquisite Variety
Geisha coffee is recognised globally for its unique characteristics and complexity, originating from Ethiopia and now cultivated in select regions of Latin America. Revered for its refined flavour profile, this variety stands out from conventional coffees. It is especially cherished by coffee connoisseurs, who appreciate its delicate body, floral notes, and bright acidity. Although Panama was the first Latin American country to cultivate Geisha to international acclaim, Colombia has quickly established itself as a significant producer, particularly in regions like Tolima.
The Unique Growing Conditions of Tolima, Colombia
Nestled in the Andean mountain range, the Tolima region provides an exceptional environment for coffee cultivation. Its rugged landscapes, diverse microclimates, and volcanic soils create the perfect conditions for producing high-quality beans. Geisha thrives in this environment, particularly at the altitude of 1,900 metres, where the cool temperatures and high humidity help to develop the coffee’s intricate flavour profile. Such conditions slow down the maturation process, allowing the beans to absorb nutrients from the soil over a longer period, contributing to the final product’s complex aroma and taste.
Tolima’s coffee farms, unlike some of the more commercially prominent regions like Huila or Antioquia, maintain a strong focus on sustainability and quality. Ángel Rojas’ farm, El Cedral, is a prime example of this dedication, where the combination of altitude, climate, and traditional farming practices converge to produce some of the most exceptional Geisha beans in the world.
The Man Behind the Coffee: Ángel Rojas
Ángel Rojas is a name that has become synonymous with quality coffee production in Tolima. With 30 years of experience, Rojas has a deep understanding of the land and the coffee-growing process. He began his career producing volume coffees, where the focus was largely on quantity rather than quality. These coffees, although important for mass consumption, rarely garnered the attention of high-end markets or competitions.
It was his brother’s influence that steered Ángel toward specialty coffee production. Transitioning from mass production to crafting high-quality, small-batch coffees required a significant shift in both technique and mindset. Ángel embraced this challenge, dedicating himself to the meticulous practices needed to produce competition-level beans. This decision was ultimately rewarded when his Geisha coffee earned third place in the 2023 Colombia Cup of Excellence, with a remarkable score of 90.
The Shift to Specialty Coffee
Specialty coffee production is a different world from traditional volume coffee farming. It demands more precise attention to detail at every stage; from cultivation to processing. The decision to focus on Geisha, one of the most celebrated and challenging coffee varieties, was bold.
Geisha’s demanding nature in terms of growing conditions, care, and processing can be a risk for farmers. However, Ángel saw this as an opportunity to demonstrate his abilities and elevate the reputation of Tolima’s coffee. His success in competitions has proven that this shift was not just a personal achievement but also a turning point for his farm, El Cedral, which has now become a symbol of premium coffee production in the region.
The Honey Processing Method
One of the key factors contributing to the extraordinary flavour of Ángel’s Geisha is the honey process used to prepare the coffee. This method involves removing the outer skin of the coffee cherry while leaving some of the mucilage, or “honey,” on the bean as it dries. Unlike washed coffees, where the mucilage is fully removed, honey-processed beans retain a sticky layer during drying. This enhances the coffee’s natural sweetness, adding complexity to its flavour profile.
The honey process requires careful monitoring and expertise, as the level of exposure to air, temperature, and moisture must be closely controlled to avoid fermentation or over-drying. The result is a coffee that boasts heightened fruity and floral notes, balanced by a delicate body and a subtle honeyed sweetness. Ángel’s mastery of this process has been instrumental in elevating his Geisha to award-winning status.
The Exceptional Tasting Experience
When enjoying our Geisha, the tasting experience is unlike any other. This coffee offers a range of flavours that engage the senses. On the first sip, the bright acidity immediately stands out, bringing a refreshing citrus-like quality to the cup. This is quickly followed by a floral aroma, reminiscent of fresh blooms, complemented by hints of chamomile. These flavours harmonise with the natural honey sweetness imparted by the processing method, creating a well-rounded cup.
As the coffee cools, more subtle flavours begin to emerge. The delicate body becomes more apparent. The finish is long-lasting, leaving a lingering aftertaste that evokes both the sweetness of honey and the brightness of citrus. It’s this complexity and evolving flavour profile that has made Ángel’s Geisha so highly regarded in the world of specialty coffee.
International Recognition: Colombia Cup of Excellence
Ángel Rojas’ third-place finish in the 2023 Colombia Cup of Excellence is one of the highest honours in the coffee industry, with only the top producers in each country being recognised. The judging process is rigorous, with coffees being evaluated on a range of criteria, including aroma, flavour, acidity, and body. Scoring an impressive 90 points, Ángel’s Geisha was recognised not just for its technical perfection but also for the artistry behind its cultivation and processing. The Cup of Excellence has been a major catalyst for placing Colombian Geisha on the global map.
It serves as a platform for connecting small-scale producers like Ángel with international buyers who are willing to pay premium prices for exceptional coffee. Ángel’s achievement has inspired other local farmers in Tolima to explore the potential of high-quality, small-batch coffee production. Specialty coffee has created new opportunities for economic growth in the region, offering farmers a more sustainable and profitable alternative to volume coffee production.
Brewing Recommendation
To fully appreciate the complex flavours of this Geisha, it is recommended to brew it using a filter method. Filter brewing, whether through a pour-over, drip coffee maker, or Chemex, allows the coffee’s delicate flavours to shine through.
Our honey processed Geisha is now available online or in our Coffee Roastery Victoria Central Gozo for one time purchase or subscription.
